Once your boat is set up as outlined above, there are three sail adjustments
that will affect your speed more than any other while sailing to weather.
These are jib sheet tension, mainsheet tension, and backstay tension.
If you feel that you are lacking speed, there is 90% chance that one
of these three adjustments is wrong. If you are slow, free sheets bearing
away a couple of degrees, gain speed and then try pointing.
Maintain the boom on centerline until you start heeling. In light winds
pull the traveler to windward so the upper batten is 3 to 5 degrees open
and the boom is in the center of the boat. As the wind increases, start
dropping the traveler and increasing sheet tension.In 10 knots, the traveler
will be in the middle of the boat and you will need to apply more sheet
tension so the top batten is pointing 3 degrees to windward. When you reach
more than 13 knots start freeing the sheet and start dropping the traveler
a bit. Don't let the boat over heel. If you're used to playing the sheet,
you will probably need to apply a lot of vang tension so every time you
free the sheet, the boom will go out instead of up. Don't use the vang
until you start heeling. If it is puffy conditions, use the backstay to
depower and power up the boat.
Position the genoa lead so when over trimming, the genoa touches the turnbuckles
and the sail remains 1" from the spreader. Then free the genoa sheet
and trim the sail following the tuning chart. With the sail in position
head slowly toward head to wind, the luff will need to break first in the
upper part of the sail (by a second) earlier than the lower part. If the
sail breaks even, move the lead back one hole. If the upper part breaks
first (by more than one second) move the lead forward one hole.In light
air the halyard should be tensioned for no wrinkles in the luff (nothing
more than that). As the wind increases allow wrinkles in the luff, this
will move the draft back, improving pointing ability. With more wind, tension
the halyard until the wrinkles disappear.
In a practical way, pull up all the
halyard, then start easing until the wrinkles start to appear or
to the desire point. Do not over tension the luff of the sail. If
you cannot point, probably some of this can be happening: a) an over
tensioned genoa sheet. b) To much tension in the genoa luff or c)
a loose mainsail leech.
Upwind never heel more than 15ª ,
if you start heeling more than that start depowering the rig, only
after you are sure that the crew is max hiking.
Remember don't try to point until
you are at full speed. Also, if the boat heels in a puff don't point
to avoid the heeling, free sheet and let the boat move, you will
end up forward but in the same line as the boat that points (but
Once the wind picks up over 16 knots,
you will need to change to the little jib. Set the lead so the foot
touches the foot of the pulpit and the leech remains 4" inside
the spreader. If the wind goes over 25 knots move the lead back 1" to
tighten the foot of the sail and to open the leech 2" to the
spreader end.Also at the first moment if it is choppy, when you change
to the jib loose the shrouds one scale.
Backstay: Divide your backstay
in 4 equal parts.
1) Totally loose for downwind legs.
2) First mark: For going upwind in 5 to 12 knots
3) Medium mark: To depower the # 1 and to sail up wind with the # 2
4) Max backstay: For the upper range of the # 2 and for winds over 25 knots.
Note: When you change to the # 3, try to sail with medium tension on the
In the run, free the main sheet until
the luff breaks, or directly to the shrouds (be careful) set the
vang so the upper leech is parallel to the boom.
Windward mark: A couple of things
to do before the mark.
a) If your are using "vang sheeting",
you will need to release your boom vang at least 4" (or more)
before turning the windward mark.
b) Pre feed the guy ¾ to the pole.
c) Hike harder.
In the runs is where you can gain
or lose the most distance, it is time to attack the leaders or consolidate
your advantage. The new Mauri Pro Sailing spinnaker is a true runner
with Broad Shoulders, this sail will allow you to sail lower and
faster than other boats in your fleet.
If you are flying a true runner, keep
in mind that:
The sail is designed to project maximum
area, so don't pull the pole too far aft. 80 degrees of the apparent
wind proves to be faster than the standard 90 degrees. Over 8 knots,
sail the boat heeling to windward as much as 10 degrees, you can
heel more and start going deeper, but don't do it if you have to
steer to much or if you start feeling pressure in the rudder. Bring
the pole end of the sail lower than the clew. NEVER allow the tack
to be higher than clew. In almost all conditions set the tack to
around one foot lower than the clew. Keep the pole perpendicular
to the mast.
Use the middle seem of the sail to
fine-tune your spinnaker. Keep the middle seem parallel to the mast.
If the upper part is closer, bring the spinnaker pole lower. If the
lower part is closer to the mast, then hoist the spinnaker pole until
you bring it to parallel.
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